72 Hours at Victoria Falls

Tough though the decline in tourism has been, there's general agreement that this is the ideal time to re-evaluate its impact on the environment. Namo Chuma of Environment 2000, an NGO actively involved in promoting environmental awareness in the area, remarks, "Our greatest challenges lie in ensuring that development is handled responsibly and in finding constructive methods of eliminating poaching, both of wildlife and of hardwoods for carvings and fuel."

The preservation of the Falls themselves depends on efficient collaboration between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Chuma is optimistic on this point. "The environment knows no political boundaries," he points out. "Zimbabwe and Zambia have a shared interest in the health of the Zambezi River and every new development proposal is subjected to an Environmental Impact Assessment. There is already strategic liaison between planning committees on both sides. We just need to strengthen these relationships."

Into the Safari Zone

Later I dropped in at Spencer's Creek Crocodile Ranch and Wildlife Sanctuary (home to 15,000 Nile crocodiles) with Lloyd Herschel of Landela Safaris. Lloyd introduced me to three sibling lions, orphaned as tiny cubs, which he'd hand-reared while he worked at the ranch. It was a labour of love - to begin with, the cubs had to be bottle-fed every four hours. They're now four years old and sleek - "Overweight," tutted Lloyd with avuncular concern. Docile and affectionate, they even consented to his showing me their huge teeth and claws.

This was my only encounter with lion, yet the Victoria Falls area is surprisingly rich in game. Game drives, birding walks, horseback and elephant-back safaris are all available.

I enjoyed a peaceful ramble aboard a teenage elephant called Lundi through the 2000-acre Nakavango Estate. Under the gentle encouragement of her induna (carer), Lundi was a patient guide, pausing only occasionally to graze succulent greenery, and rumbling contentedly with that distinctive elephant noise that sounds like indigestion.

That evening I enjoyed a fabulous dinner with a party of gregarious Americans at Sekuti's Drift, a charming colonial-style lodge situated in open bush outside Victoria Falls town. For some, the trip was their first taste of Africa and the realisation of a great dream. Aware of Zimbabwe's troubles, but undeterred, they were glad to have been able to form first-hand opinions. Everything fascinated them, and they had quickly concluded that with so much to enjoy around the Falls, two or three days is barely enough time to scratch the surface. I had to agree. Sipping my after-dinner Amarula beneath the moon, I couldn't help thinking that if I were staying a little longer, I might even have tried the gorge swing again.

Victoria falls factfile: Getting there

If you want to travel direct to the Falls your best bet is Air Zimbabwe's new flight from Gatwick (London). However there are bucket shop and discount tickets for some flights from European centres to Johannesburg, Windhoek, Harare and Lusaka. There are links from these African centres, and Botswana, to Livingstone and/or Victoria Falls airports - daily between Harare and the Falls. Connections from Mozambique, Madagascar, Mauritius and Malawi to Harare enable you to get to the Falls fairly easily from those countries too.

Several tour companies operate road transfers or excursions from Kasane (Chobe) in Botswana to the Falls. If you're driving, the Falls are about 80km from Kasane, 440km from Bulawayo (on excellent roads) and 480km from Lusaka over not such good surfaces.

Holders of American and many European passports will require visas for entering Zambia but not Zimbabwe. In both countries, however, a return air ticket, or proof of sufficient funds for those driving, may be asked for.

Where to Stay

On the Zimbabwean side there are three camping areas (one with basic rest huts) and four backpacker establishments catering for budget tourists. Two hotels, seven lodges and a block of flats accommodate middle price range tourists whilst those seeking upmarket hotels or lodges will find seven of them in the municipal area and numerous safari camps a short drive from town. In town there takeaways and cafés, two steakhouses and restaurants in the hotels.

On the Zambian side backpackers will find three campsites and, in Livingstone, some basic accommodation. Along the riverbank are half a dozen, mainly upmarket, lodges. The three star Zambezi Sun Hotel and the five star Royal Livingstone Hotel, both operated by Sun International, opened in April and May respectively.

When to go

This depends on what you want. Between April and June the water flow is greatest, the gorge heavily misted, the rainforest wet and rainbows appear overhead. The volume is lowest from September to November and the view of the Falls very clear. However from October onwards it can get very hot and humid, particularly during the rains (November and March).

Water volume also determines the type of rafting experience you will have. During low water times some of the rapids get quite cheeky (Class 4 or 5 on a 6-point scale) and they're a bit more friendly when the waters are high. There are half day, full day and 3 - 8 day rafting trips. They start and finish at different points and the climb out on the shorter runs is demandingly steep. Establish what you want before booking.

What to do

About fifteen different companies, based in Victoria Falls and Livingstone, offer activities including: guided tours of the Falls; scenic light plane, helicopter and microlight flights; balloon rides; horse, elephant and mountain bike riding; parachuting, bungee jumping; white water rafting, canoeing, kayaking, riverboarding; abseiling, gorge swinging, fishing, jet-ski and boat cruises on the river; game drives and visits to the curio markets, snake and crocodile parks.

A Closing Note

Because of the drop in the number of visitors to Zimbabwe some establishments and operators on this side may have shut down. However the problems afflicting other areas in the country have not impacted on the resort other than perhaps fuel shortages. If anything visitors are now better off, for the crowds have disappeared and the competition for their patronage intensified. London-based Emma Gregg has travelled extensively throughout Africa and has contributed to numerous travel guides including West Africa - The Rough Guide and Kenya - The Rough Guide. Published in Travel Africa Edition Sixteen: Summer 2001 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)